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Gabon
We left Kribi on the second of December, Kribi had been an
excellent place to relax and enjoy New Years Eve celebrations
and a few comforts but now it was time to move on. Around
four thousand miles to Namibia, which doesn't feel that far
seeing that I've covered eleven thousand miles so far on this
trip. It was a rough dusty track through the jungle running
east towards the road for Gabon, it was good to be on the
bike again. After one hundred and forty miles running east
we turned south onto the main highway, which was lovely smooth
twisty tarmac. The border crossing from Cameroon to Gabon
was time consuming, the actual border is marked by the river
Ntem but we had to continue on into Gabon for twenty miles
to clear immigration and customs at Bitam it was dark by the
time we found a hotel and had parked our bikes up inside the
local night club which we were assured was going to stay closed
on this night. I'd parked my bike in many places during this
trip but a nightclub was a first.
The road between Bitam and Lamberene is incredible more smooth,
twisty tarmac running through the jungle with hardly any other
traffic. I would highly recommend that you ride this road
if you ever get the opportunity. We stopped for lunch on the
equator and then continued on our way but as soon as we entered
the southern hemisphere the road turned into a pot holed buckled
mess, was this to be the last tarmac before Namibia? No, the
road improved again and we were soon back to the pannier scratching.
The tarmac finished a little past Lamberene and was a mix
between gravel and wet mud. What a perfect days ride perfect
tarmac and then off road!
At the end of the day we rode into the jungle and pitched
our tents and cracked open a couple of beers that we bought
in the last village. It's no problem to get your hands on
beer in Gabon every village no matter how small has a bar
or drinking den. Everyone seems to be on the piss the whole
time, no exaggeration. I was talking to one local man and
asked him if the women join in with all this beer drinking.
"Of course he replied but only after they have gathered
the fire wood and cooked dinner."
Gabon is one of the richest countries in Africa with huge
natural reserves and a small population of only 1.2 million.
It is probably the most chilled out African country I have
visited so far.
The jungle camping is wild, I left it a little late to apply
the deet and little did I know that there were hundreds of
tiny little insects feasting on my flesh. It wasn't till the
next morning until I saw and felt the results of this. I was
like having brail written up and down my arms.
I was rudely woken at three AM it had started pouring with
rain and I hadn't bothered to use the flysheet. I got up to
put it on and crawled back into my tent and it's damp, sweaty
and hot and I'm not getting back to sleep any time soon. Six
thirty, thunder, lightening and torrential rain. I stay in
my tent to see if it passes by eight O'clock the sun is shinning
and the clouds have passed.
After another couple of days riding through beautiful untouched
rain forest the jungle starts to turn to savannah. Many shades
of lush green and many trees make for stunning scenery. At
around four each day we turn off the road and ride through
waist high grass to find a camping place.
Gabon has been yet another highlight of the ride through
Africa the riding has been loads of fun and it has been an
easy country to travel in. Next Congo...
Next report...
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